Apricot Season

I have apricots on the brain. I think the reason why is that I just finished reading a book called The Man in a White Sharkskin Suit. It’s a memoir written by Lucette Lagnado about growing up in a wealthy Jewish family in Egypt in the mid-20th century and then immigrating to America because of mounting anti-Semitism in her homeland. The book is amazing in its ability to recreate the sights, sounds and even tastes from the narrator’s privileged young life on Malaka Nazli, the street where she lived in Cairo.

It seemed like apricots were mentioned on every page of the book. There were Lagnado’s accounts of looking out her apartment window and watching vendors pushing wheelbarrows full of fresh apricots, figs, grapes and other fruits. There were also tales of Zarifa, Lagnado’s paternal grandmother, who was convinced of the magical healing powers of apricots, causing her to slip them into just about every dish she prepared – from rice to meat to chicken -- so that each meal was infused with a sweetly tart flavor.

With the book on my mind and apricots currently in season, I opened up a recent New York Times Dining In/Out section (August 6, 2008) and discovered Melissa Clark’s “A Good Appetite” column, featuring a recipe for “Honey-Apricot Parfait with Greek Yogurt, Walnuts and Cinnamon.”

My mouth was watering before I finished reading the column. I tore out the recipe and promised myself I would go early the following Saturday morning to the farmers’ market and pick up a pint of these luscious little fruits, which have a subtle citrusy fragrance and soft velvety orange skin. I did indeed get to the farmers’ market but all of my apricots didn’t make it home because I decided to eat two of them in the car, and, of course, dripped yellow juice all over my white t-shirt.

I also went over to the health food store and bought some Greek yogurt. I like the Fage (pronounced Fa-yeh) brand with zero percent fat because it’s really rich and creamy, plus full of calcium and protein -- and only 90 calories to boot. I had the other items in my kitchen: sugar, cinnamon, a lemon, good honey to drizzle on top (go for something like lavender, orange blossom or wildflower), and some walnuts.

Once I had gathered all the ingredients, I went to work. Halving the recipe (since I was only making it for myself), I cubed a cup of apricots, put them in a small bowl and then tossed them with lemon zest, cinnamon and sugar. While I let the mixture rest for a few minutes to draw out the juices, I toasted the walnuts in the oven to release more of their flavor and make them crispier.

Next, I stirred the yogurt in its container until it looked nice and thick. At this point, I wanted to lick my spoon because the white fluffy yogurt looked so much like ice cream. Beware, this is a mirage. If you do choose to give in to the urge and taste it, be forewarned that you will get a rather tart surprise. A better decision is to sample the marinated apricots cubes, which is exactly what I did. Savoring each juicy sweet bite, I had to force myself to stop eating the fruit so there would be enough left for the recipe.

The directions say to put half of the yogurt into a parfait glass or bowl. I put mine in a coffee mug the first time and a wine glass the second go-round, but if I ever served this for company I’d hop over to Pottery Barn or Pier 1 and pick up something a little nicer!

The next step is to drizzle a little of the honey on the yogurt, followed by a layer of the walnuts (think baklava). I spooned the cubed apricots on top, saving a few pieces for garnish. I repeated the yogurt, honey and nuts one more time, then sprinkled the reserved apricots on top.

I have to tell you that this turned out to be the best breakfast I have ever made for myself, although it would also be a perfectly delightful (and healthy) snack or dessert. With its colorful layers of white, brown and orange, it not only looked great but also tasted terrific, boasting an incredible combination of tart and sweet flavors and crunchy and creamy textures. Taking a big bite, I closed my eyes and could almost transport myself to Lagnado’s cherished Middle Eastern childhood.


Honey-Apricot Parfait with Greek Yogurt, Walnuts and Cinnamon
The New York Times, Wednesday, August 6, 2008
By Melissa Clark


10 ounces apricots, pitted and cubed (about 2 cups)
1 to 2 tablespoons sugar, depending on sweetness of apricots
¼ teaspoon lemon zest, optional
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup Greek yogurt
Good honey for drizzling
½ cup chopped toasted walnuts

Toss apricots with sugar, lemon zest (if using), and cinnamon. Let rest for a few minutes to bring juices out in apricots.

Stir yogurt until creamy. Divide half of it between two bowls or parfait glasses. Drizzle with a little honey and sprinkle with nuts. Spoon apricots into each glass, saving a few cubes to garnish tops. Repeat layering of yogurt, honey and nuts, then garnish with reserved apricot cubes. Serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings